Dipping Underground at a Tuscan Spa

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

Spaaaah. Just saying the word makes your shoulders relax, doesn't it? Now try Itaaaalian spaaah. Say it with me. Say it soft and it's almost like praying. So I went to the temple of my choice, Grotta Giusti Terme in the little town of Montesummano Terme, Tuscany.

In a country brimming with unique experiences, this one stands out. Its story begins over a century ago, when the Giusti family was getting rich in the mining industry. One day, digging workers discovered a cavity in the earth complete with stalactites and natural lakes. After realizing the water was thermal, the Giusti family said 'Addio' to mining and 'Ciao, Bella' to a hotel and spa. And I'm glad they did.

The underground cavity creates increasingly warmer temperatures and humidity as you progress along its different levels. The temperature at each level, however, remains constant. The levels are identified in a journey-through-the-afterlife fashion: Paradiso, Purgatorio and naturalmente, Inferno. Even Limbo is represented by a lake that keeps a constant, pleasant temperature. The cavities are well lit and there are pathways rimmed with railings for easy walking. Chairs and chaise lounges are set up at certain points along the way, inviting you to settle in where the temperature suits you best.

As I walked through the cavities, I was wearing the white terry robe and disposable slippers issued by the spa to all of their guests. I could have also wrapped my hair in a towel, but I decided to brave the elements. And of course, I had my bottle of water. The first level was Paradiso, with Limbo off to the right. It was only slightly warmer than the spa hallway. As I walked down the pathway into Purgatorio, I could feel the heat & humidity mildly increasing. Some people stop here, but I had to see what Inferno was like. I can tell you it has very little to do with Dante's version. Here, although it was very hot with very high humidity, the breathing was easy. Somehow, the air is circulating down there.

Anyway, that's where I got comfortable in a lounge chair and closed my eyes. It was quiet and other-worldly. There was a sense of being closer to the core of the Earth than ever before. I considered becoming a Hobbit. After a while though, the heat got a little heavy. I slowly got up and made my way to Purgatorio, where I transitioned to cooler air in another lounge chair. After that it was on to Paradiso, but not without a stop beside Limbo's natural reflecting pool. Oddly, it did make me feel suspended in time.

Once I slowly emerged from Paradiso to the hallway of the spa, it was time for a full body massage followed by an aromatherapy facial. Although I've had such treatments before at other spas, having them after a sojourn to the underworld left me more relaxed and receptive to the benefits of the treatments. I was also very hungry. I had a leisurely lunch outside at the spa cafe. Because the spa is located in the middle of a park, it's quiet, relaxing and full of trees, grass, birds and sky.

In addition to being a distinctive day spa, you can spend days of pampering at the Grotta Giusti hotel. Enjoy the swirling thermal waters of the pool or play 18 holes of golf. You may never want to leave. A luxury hotel is attached to the spa for those who wish to prolong the ecstasy. Rumor has it that Michael Douglas has been among their guests. The treatment menu and programs are extensive and varied, from traditional Italian approaches to Ayurveda.

All in all you'll love it, whichever ring of Dante's Inferno you happen to be on.

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Learning More Than the Language

This is the transcript of the podcast appearing on our www.essenceofitaly.net podcast page. In this interview you'll hear why, in Lecce, there's more to learning Italian than sitting in a classroom.

Carolyn: Learning a new language can be both fun and rewarding; especially if there is a fun and rewarding technique. Today's program can help you shed your old-fashioned ideas of learning a second language. Instead, travel to the heel of the Italian boot. Learn Italian in the morning and spend the afternoon sunning by the Mediterranean...drive to the Roman baths, or explore the artistic center of Lecce, the city that Italians call "The Florence of the South".

It's in Lecce that you'll find the Apulia Domus School of Language and Culture. Students at Apulia Domus range from college-age to after retirement, couples or singles, from absolute beginners to those who just need to brush up on their skills.

My guest, Nella Leo, is the Director of Italian Language and Activities. Apulia Domus uses a teaching method that is unique to the teaching of Italian.

Nella Leo: Our goal is to let them learn in 2 weeks time because we take care of grammar but just in a level where the student can dedicate time to the grammar. But the first thing that the student wants to do is to have the satisfaction to say some words in Italian.

Carolyn: Some of the premiere universities in the United States have study abroad programs with Apulia Domus. For instance, Vassar, Weslyan and Wellsley were so impressed that each one moved its study abroad program from the University of Siena to Apulia Domus in Lecce. Not only do the students benefit from the curriculum at the school, but they spend time in a less-touristed region of Italy.

Nella Leo: In Lecce, you won't hear English speaking all the time, as in Siena. When American students come to Italy they normally go to Tuscany, to Rome and they never come to the south. So this is a good opportunity for them to do this with a university program. We are proud of this because if they chose us it's thanks to our way of working and thanks to the possibilities that we can give to the students once here.

Carolyn: And just what are those possibilities? You might take an excursion with a private guide and driver to beaches, monuments and ancient sites. You might take a trip to see the Trulli houses, unique to Southern Italy. Or maybe take a boat ride along the coast, or attend a local religious celebration or festa.

Nella Leo: This aspect of social activities; not all the schools do it, but for us it's very important. And we know that without this, the study holiday is not the same. I know you have to study Italian, but I know also that you are out of your country. So for us it's very important.

Carolyn: OK, so maybe you like the idea of exploring a lesser-known region of Italy, but you're still a little shaky about Italian classes? Not to worry, Apulia Domus has you covered! The school offers a variety of courses, in English, that will teach you aspects of Italian culture. Classes are offered in cooking, dance, ceramics and cartapesta, a distinctive form of sculpture using paper mache.

Nella Leo: We can also organize classes for people who don't want to learn the language but instead, learn the culture. Our staff is Italian people specializing in teaching Italian culture in a foreign language, above all, in English.

Carolyn: For accomodations, you can stay at the school itself or one of the nearby hotels or B&Bs. You can check out the Apulia Domus website at www.apuliadomus.com and click on "Apulia".

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Spending Quality Time in Lecce

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

The landscape of Lecce is mostly flat and dry, dotted with cactus plants taller than the average Italian. This can be a jolt to the system if you expect all of Italy to look like Tuscany; it doesn't. Although a small country, Italy offers a wide variety of landscape. Due to the drier southern climate, you won't see expanses of lush greenery, but it has other charms. Herbs grow wild along the sides of the road. If you're cooking, it's fun to pull over and pick fresh rosemary to add to your lunch or dinner. Luckily, there's an oasis of greenery in Lecce's public park.

It's a large space filled with palm trees, gardens, benches and a majestic gazebo with a gleaming, tiled dome. Open every day until sunset, it's where everyone brings kids, dogs and books to wile away the afternoon. Outside of the park, the houses and modern buildings tend to be low with flat roofs (except in the historic center, described below). This creates somewhat of a "barracks" feel as you look around.

Lecce is located just about dead center of the heel of the Italian boot; a peninsula within a peninsula. Consequently, there is easy access to beaches on the eastern coast of the heel (Adriatic Sea) and the western coast of the heel (Ionian Sea). On any given day, you can choose your coast depending upon which way the wind is blowing. I'm not kidding. When the wind is blowing due east, go to the Adriatic. When it blows to the west, go to the Ionian coast. When you have so much sandy, clear beachfront at your disposal, you can afford to be picky. The arid landscape changes dramatically as you head out of town toward the beaches. Believe me, what this area might lack in verdant hillsides it makes up for in stunning seascapes. The land gives way to a seemingly endless expanse of crystal blue sky and sea. You can reach a nearby beach, Torre di Chianca, by bus from several stops in Lecce. In August, the height of tourist season, this beach is full of playful people and structures brimming with food, cafes, changing rooms, rafts and various water toys. However, if you go off-season (I was there in October), you'll only hear the sound of the waves and seabirds. The structures remain on the beach, but they are empty and brightly painted in a style heavy with Greek and Arab influences. The sand is soft and the water is clean, clear and warm, even in October.

The historic center of Lecce (centro storico) is why the town is called The Florence of the South. Filled with churches constructed in Baroque style, it's easy to lose yourself and your way in the labyrinth of narrow streets. Eventually you'll reach the Piazza del Duomo, the architectural centerpiece of town. Splendid in daylight, it's especially beguiling at night. Indirect lighting installed throughout the Piazza illuminates the statuary, creating an ethereal atmosphere. Lecce is all about walking, and this is a great place to catch your breath.

The historic center is also the place to go for entertainment. Restaurants, bars, movie theaters and gelato abound. A great place for a light meal or tasty snack is Sybarite, whose doors open onto the Piazza del Duomo. It's open all day and well into the night. The atmosphere is casual, the service is friendly and the food, delicious and imaginative.

Another "don't miss" is Liberrima located at Corte dei Cicala, 1. Although it calls itself a bookstore, it is so much more. In addition to multi-language books ranging from the classics to art and travel, it offers books on tape, videos, DVDs and music CDs. I especially like the local music selection that lets me hear musicians and styles that are hard to find elsewhere. Just outside the front door is the Liberrima Cafe, where umbrelled tables lend a party atmosphere to the piazza. Films are sometimes shown against one wall of the piazza, so you can sip your drink and laugh along with Charlie Chaplin and Buster Keaton, to name a few.

After you've eaten your fill, bought some books and seen a silent film, what to do next? Like so many other Italian cities, in Lecce you can walk out of anyplace directly onto an excavation of subterranean Roman structures. Now that's entertainment.

The historic center has great shopping. In addition to Italian clothes, shoes and artwork, you can find African and Indonesian jewelry and furniture. A famous local craft is Cartapesta. This is a centuries-old technique of fashioning lifelike figures out of straw and paper mache. The figures are then painted so skillfully that they seem to be carved out of stone. The artisans in Lecce excel in religious and nativity statues, many of them life-size.

The best designer shopping by far is just outside the historic center at Piazza Mazzini. Max Mara, Missoni and Valle Verde are at your disposal, just to name a few. The Piazza is also home to a small park with an imposing white stone fountain in the center. Perched throughout the fountain's structure are whimsical, impish figures that peek at you from under the streams of water and seem to be having great fun. At night the fountain is lit with a golden glow, adding a new dimension to its architecture.

As expected, Saturday night is party night in Lecce. Around midnight, everyone drives into the historic center, creating bumper to bumper traffic seldom seen outside of New York City. Eventually, everyone arrives and miraculously finds parking. Then it's off on foot to the bar of your choice. We chose Route 66, a noisy, crowded place with music videos playing from multiple screens, but no dancing. It's a place to sit, smoke, drink and speak loudly to the person next to you.

After the bar, there's always a party going on at somebody's apartment. That's a great opportunity to hear someone sing, watch someone else learn how to juggle, and try to find the bathroom. When you've had enough, what to do? Luckily, the answer lies at Leopardi, open 24 hours serving coffee, liquor and pastry. This place is very popular (especially around 3:00 a.m.) and there's always a line to get in. We wait patiently and our reward is cappuccino and flaky delights amid the music and neon. Even as we leave about an hour later, the line outside is just as long and the place is just as lively as when we arrived. It makes you wonder if anyone ever sleeps in this town on a Saturday night.

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Italian Language School in Lecce - Brush Up on Your Italian While You Lounge at the Beach

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

Wouldn't it be great to be able to brush up on your Italian language skills for a few hours and spend the rest of the day sunning at the beach? Or drive to the nearby Roman baths, ancient towers and breathtaking seascapes? Or walking among the ancient churches in the city dubbed 'The Florence of the South'? I had the chance to do just that at the Apulia Domus school in Lecce.

Apulia Domus was the first school in Lecce to offer Italian courses to non-Italians. The premise is simple: small classes offer individualized attention with lively, well-trained instructors and a staff that bends over backward to accommodate you. The result is real progress in Italian no matter your level of skill.
As a student, you have some choices for accomodations. You can stay in student housing (my choice), which means you can stay in a single or double room with a shared or private bathroom (make your preference clear when you make your arrangements). The kitchen, dining and TV area are shared with the other students in your section. There's a clothes washer (which really comes in handy) but no dryer. Thankfully, almost every day was sunny so hanging the clothes outside on the line was pretty easy. The room prices are inexpensive and there are not many creature comforts. The beds are comfortable but the rooms are Spartan by American standards. On the other hand, you won't be spending a lot of time in your room.

If you prefer cushier arrangements, there are private apartments available on the campus. You can also arrange your own housing in the center of town at a hotel or bed or breakfast, or ask the school to arrange it for you.

A typical day started with making breakfast in my dorm and a visit to Giardino Ristorante. It's a little cafe in front of the school that serves wonderful pastries and light lunch food. They bake small batches throughout the day so everything is fresh, whether you arrive at 8:00 or 10:30 in the morning. It's a popular and busy place, but they focus on the individual customer. After about 2 days, the barman started brewing my cappuccino as he saw me enter the cafe, and served it with my preference of one packet of cane sugar. I usually also enjoyed cornetti con crema , which were always warm from the oven. The flaky crust was the perfect complement to the velvety cream. If it weren't for class starting, I could have eaten them all morning.

Class started around 10:00 and lasted for 3 hours. The first day we each took a proficiency test to determine our level of comfort with Italian. We were then placed in the appropriate class level. My class had a total of 4 students representing England, Germany, Austria and the US. During my stay, I was lucky enough to experience the teaching styles of 2 instructors. Like all of the teaching staff at Apulia Domus, they are native Italian speakers fluent in English. They kept our interest through a combination of conversation, writing, reading and debating current events. They are attuned not only to the formal rules of grammar but to current changes in Italian and its dialects. Like every language, Italian evolves. Some of the expressions and rules that I learned 5 years ago are obsolete. We left the course ready to speak Italian in a modern, conversational style.

The school also sponsors day trips to surrounding areas such as Bari, Santa Maria di Leuca, Gallipoli and Otranto. One afternoon is set aside for a guided tour of the historic center of Lecce. One evening, staff and students had dinner together at a local restaurant. This place was originally a convent, built deep into a forest long ago to be undetected by enemy invaders. They serve the kind of meals you read about and salivate over but don't know if you can actually eat. Plates continuously circulate the table filled with succulent antipasti, mouth-watering pasta dishes, meat and fish creations, vegetables, homemade bread and wine. All followed by luscious desserts, coffee, grappa and vin santo. The entire process is hours long. And oh yes, you can eat it all.

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The Maremma Region of Tuscany - Ansedonia

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

Directly across the harbor from Porto Ercole lies Ansedonia, an almost sleepy little town with some of the best beachfront in Tuscany. Rather than the rocks and pebbles that greet you on so many northern Italian beaches, Ansedonia offers soft, velvety sand and invites you to dig in your toes. Ansedonia is where some of the wealthiest families in Italy have their summer retreats (like the Agnellis, for instance).

The water is warm and clear and, when the breezes are right, the perfect liquid highway for windsurfers. Many of the locals are ardent wind surfers, and even if it's not your idea of fun, watching them is hypnotic. There's something about the silhouette of a triangular sail gliding silently across the water, powered only by the breeze and guided by a solitary human being that relaxes the mind and opens the heart.

Because it's a seaside town, most people own a raft or a motor boat. Hitch a ride with someone and get the experience of a lifetime. This area of the Tyrrhenian Sea is characterized by jagged stone formations jutting out of the water. Depending on the size of the rock, some areas are fit for cliff diving, while others are home to luxurious retreats of the wealthy. It's easy to feel envious, but as you skim the water's surface in your little craft remember that you're enjoying the same sun, surf and scenery for a fraction of the cost!

On the beach you can rent a lounge or umbrella or bring your own. Conveniently, there are bathrooms and small huts where you can change your clothes. Water aerobics are popular, and an above-ground pool stands on the sand just for this purpose. Classes are given regularly, with the instructor shouting encouragement from a wooden platform outside of the pool. However you choose to spend your day at the beach, be sure you stay long enough to watch the breathtaking sunset. It's surprising how many people leave before this natural wonder begins. Don't be one of them. Stay and watch one of the best shows around.

One of my most memorable experiences in Ansedonia was when my Italian host instructed me to find small clams at the beach and bring them home for that night's dinner. He was planning a special dish and the clams were essential. He told me to sit at the water's edge and run my outstretched fingers just under the wet sand. There I would find the small, nickel-sized clams for our repast. I had a paper cup of water nearby, and I put the clams immediately into the cup. I was to fill the cup three quarters of the way with clams and be sure to keep all of them covered with water at all times. If any of them were uncovered, they would open too early in the process, ruining the taste. 'Don't let them open' was my mantra. I walked home with the cup of clams, making sure the water didn't spill out of the cup, exposing the precious cargo to air. When I arrived at the villa, the clams were rinsed and added to homemade angel hair pasta, olive oil and garlic. The heat from the pasta opened the clams and their flavor infused the dish. It was heaven.

You don't always have to eat at home, though. A tasty restaurant on the beach called Al Cartello offers specialties for lunch and dinner. Fresh seafood, pasta and locally grown vegetables are served up from the deceptively small kitchen. Lighter fare is also available, such as varieties of pizza, along with beverages and gelato. Al Cartello is constructed as a large hut with a thatched roof, wood floors and windows without glass or screens. You can eat inside and watch soccer on the T.V., or eat outdoors at one of the many umbrelled tables. At night, it's especially nice to settle in at one of these outdoor tables. Torches blaze all around in the sand and small candles grace the tables. The gentle, steady sound of the surf in the darkness sets the perfect mood.

During my visit, Al Cartello hosted several private parties, with 'private' being a rather loose idea. One night, friends threw a birthday party and it seemed the whole town was there. The food was served buffet-style and live music played. We danced on the sand until we were hungry, and then ate and danced some more. At some point, everyone jumped into the water for a moonlight swim. The sky was full of stars and we watched in wonder as a few of them shot across the sky, leaving streaks of light behind them.

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The Maremma Region of Tuscany - Porto Ercole, Orbetello and Porto Santo Stefano

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

Off the coast of southern Tuscany a magnificent rock formation juts skyward out of the sea. Known as Monte Argentario, this beachfront haven has long been a popular summer destination for Romans and Tuscans alike. This region includes Porto Ercole, Orbetello, Porto Santo Stefano and, across the harbor on the mainland, Ansedonia.

The town of Porto Ercole is surrounded by what's left of a mighty stone fortress. Much of the wall facing the Tyrrhenian Sea remains sufficiently intact so that an intrepid soul can walk its length while standing tall above the ocean. The wall is narrow and uneven but if you're up to the challenge, it's worth it. But please, watch your step. The sea is so beautiful and the palm trees so grand, you can forget to look where you're going!

Porto Ercole boasts several boating marinas and has long been a sailors' town. It is home to no less than three forts, the most interesting of which is Fort Stella. Named for its shape, it was built in the form of a star. One of its courtyards is a hexagon. Obviously, the architect loved geometry.


After facing down the dangers of the fortress wall, go just outside the walls on the other side of town and grab yourself a luscious gelato. Several kiosks are located at the edge of a park serving sweets and espresso. You can sit at one of the small tables set up near the street or stroll through the park with your gelato in hand. During the summer, these little cafes continue serving well into the night, so you can indulge yourself on the way home from a movie, dancing or a local concert.

The nearby town of Orbetello is surrounded by lagoons and awash in sea air. It attracts young, active tourists making the most of their holidays. At the same time, the past is very much alive. While sitting in an outdoor cafe enjoying a glass of wine, we heard the usual late afternoon noises; cell phones ringing, animated conversations, music from the radio playing inside the bar. Gradually, we became aware of other, less expected sounds. We heard the heavy notes of a tuba, the semi-regular crash of cymbals, and the beat of a bass drum. Trumpets joined in, and notes from a clarinet whirled and danced above it all. The sounds grew louder as the band drew closer, a marching band of old men wending its way through the stone streets into the main piazza. The men arranged themselves in a loose concert formation and played like they were playing for a king. We were never clear on what they were celebrating, but it didn't matter. It was an honor just to be there. A fragile tradition reaching out from the old world into the new millennium, refusing to go without a fight.

On the other side of Monte Argentario lies Porto Santo Stefano. It's a little more chic and high priced, with more of an elite resort feeling. Sure, it has great views and shimmering water, but what does it have that's truly one of a kind? La Stregha del Mare. Located on a two lane road full of hairpin turns without any streetlights, this is a dance club with a difference. La Strega del Mare calls itself a Glamour Club, and it's not kidding. Open from July to September, it attracts locals and tourists alike, including the jet set crowd. You never know who will be standing next to you, vying for the bartender's attention.

House music lovers can dance the night away in the multi-leveled disco as DJs spin the latest tracks. While you dance, look up through the open ceiling and out toward the water, into the night sky. This is great way to dance and hear the current hits on the European charts. Depending upon which night you go, they also feature live band performances.

If you'd like a more sophisticated atmosphere, just go upstairs and make a few turns to find yourself in the piano bar. Sip a drink at a candlelit table and listen to the piano player sing contemporary and standard hits in Italian, English and other languages. It's quiet enough to have a conversation with a partner (maybe someone you just met in the disco?) and good enough to just listen and enjoy. If the impulse strikes, this is the place to dance your best ballroom.

While in Argentario, I was lucky enough to see Dee Dee Bridgewater perform in a park on a makeshift stage. We sat in bleachers that had been erected for the occasion. Although not very comfortable (think: high school football), we soon forgot all about that as Dee Dee began to serenade us. She sang her trademark jazz songbook in English, as were virtually all of her comments between songs. Her Italian-speaking audience loved every minute of it. They responded to the talent, emotion and musicality rather than needing to understand every word. Dee Dee's sprinkling of Italian phrases throughout the performance was enough for the crowd to erupt in wild appreciation.

The hours slipped past, the night grew darker and the music sweeter. As I looked to my right, I saw a glowing full moon shining down on the deep blue, undulating sea. For a second, I wished I'd brought my camera, but I realized that no photo could have done the moment justice. The colors were impossible to capture, the sky too expansive, the music too joyous, the surrounding conversation too animated, to have ever been frozen in a frame.

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