America's Cup in Naples, Italy

America’s Cup World Series, the world’s premier yacht race and a magnet for the world’s top sailors, will take place in Naples, Italy in the spring of 2012 and 2013.

The AC World Series features tight, short race courses designed to deliver close racing for the fans on shore. The innovative regatta format includes a mix of speed trials, head-to-head match racing, and all-out fleet racing. These events provide the fans the only opportunity to see all of the America’s Cup competitors racing together. The first event in Naples occurs April 7-15, 2012 and the second event is in May 11-29, 2013. The champion of the 2012-2013 AC World Series season will be crowned in Naples, after which the teams will move to San Francisco for the Louis Vuitton Cup and the America’s Cup Finals.

At the Naples events, sailors will compete in state-of-the-art AC45 wing-sailed catamarans. The AC45 is the official boat of the AC World Series and the forerunner to the next generation of America’s Cup boats. While capable of closing speeds over 35 mph, the AC45 remains nimble enough to handle the tight, tactical race courses. The April event will be the first time these high-tech boats will be raced in Italy.

The AC45 was designed by the ORACLE Racing design and engineering team, which developed the catamaran on behalf of the America’s Cup community. A high-tech, grand prix race boat, it’s powered by a wing that towers over 20 meters above the deck and has already demonstrated excellent performance in winds from 5 to 30 knots in early sea trials. ORACLE Racing skipper Jimmy Spithill, the test pilot, described the boat this way after just one sail, "The wing is big and the boat powers up quickly. It’s easy to sail and maneuverability is not a problem.”

The challenge was to design a boat that not only met the racing and performance criteria, but also fits inside a 40-foot container, which is the shipping method for the America’s Cup World Series.

“The boat was designed for all-around performance so it can be sailed under a wide range of conditions,” said Ian Burns, ORACLE Racing design coordinator. “Plus it’s a regatta boat, meant for lots of racing, so quick assembly and disassembly was a must to accommodate an active competition schedule.”

The race village will be in Bagnoli, a seaside district of Naples. Hotel San Francesco al Monte, a former 16th century monastery and now a beautiful four star hotel, has special packages available for the event. To learn more, visit sanfrancescoalmonte.it.

Other recommended hotels: Grand Hotel Santa Lucia, Royal Continental Hotel, Grand Hotel Parker’s and Hotel Naples.

Cuisine From Abruzzo Romances New York

In the midst of a cold, blustery, New York City winter comes a warm breeze from Abruzzo, Italy in the form of Rosanna Di Michele. Full of joy and a sincere desire to share her region’s cuisine, Rosanna’s dream is to make her mark on the Big Apple, one plate at a time.

The Abruzzo region lies in central Italy, east of Rome. It includes the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea, with 3 national parks and 30 nature reserves. This wild landscape with its varied climates gives rise to a hearty cuisine full of simple, satisfying flavors from land and sea. Caciocavallo and Scamorza cheeses, truffles, saffron and spicy peppers, along with ventricina (salami), soppressate and mortadelle are all typical products of Abruzzo.

Rosanna comes from Vasto, an ancient coastal city of art and lively festivals celebrating food and culture. It was here that Rosanna was inspired to create Abruzzo in Tavola, an organization dedicated to the preservation and enjoyment of Abruzzo cuisine. According to Rosanna, “The basis of everything - health, culture, happiness, of life itself - starts at the table.” Rosanna understands that the best meals come from a cook with an open heart. “I put love in everything I make. The best thing for me is to cook from morning until night for people who appreciate what I make.”


She has not had a problem finding people who appreciate her talents. It was standing room only at Di Palo’s Enoteca in New York’s Little Italy recently where Rosanna made a hearty, steaming bowl of trafilata al bronzo pasta, an Abruzzese favorite. For me, the highlight was a scoop of finely chopped hot green peppers marinated in olive oil and poured over the pasta. It added such a wonderful kick to the dish that I decided then and there to add this to my own kitchen repertoire. Of course, the food at Di Palo’s was paired with Abruzzo wines, like Montepulciano, Cerasuolo and Trebbiano. The event was so well received that Di Palo’s invited her back a few weeks later to delight its customers with her delectable cuisine.

Rosanna’s talent was a favorite at a recent fundraising auction at Marymount School. The lucky winner had Rosanna in her own kitchen, cooking an amazing multi-course meal of eggplant ripiene, polpette della nonna on a bed of oven baked potatoes, risotto with mushroom and pecorino cheese and seafood pasta. It was such a success that she has been invited back to participate in the 2012 fundraiser. She was also invited to dish out the delicacies at Whole Foods on Columbus Circle on Valentine’s Day.

She is also in demand outside of Manhattan. She shared her cuisine at the Original Arthur Avenue Italian Deli in the Bronx and at Gourmet 2 Go Marketplace and Catering in Bronxville.


Rosanna is so taken by the enthusiastic reception she has received in NYC that she wants to create something special in return. In May of this year she will hold Abruzzo Week in New York. Events will be held at various locations throughout the city featuring dishes made with genuine Abruzzese ingredients.

A wonderful dolce from Abuzzo is tarallucci, small pockets of dough filled with a combination of white wine, concentrated grape, almond and chocolate. This dessert is so popular that it has its own festival. Tarallucci & Vino is held annually during the second week of August in Casalbordino, Italy.



Another wonderful dish is scrippelle ‘mbusse, an ancient recipe from the city of Teramo. It is a kind of crepe made with flour, water and eggs, rolled and bathed in broth and sprinkled with cheese. But I have to tell you, this description hardly does it justice.

Rosanna will soon return to Italy, but we await her arrival in New York in May, when the city is blossoming in Springtime, for her presentation of Abruzzo Week. I know I’ll be ready.

A Skiing Novice Hits the Italian Alps

When I say novice, I mean novice. Allow me to explain. I tend to hibernate all winter, much like a bear. But once the warm weather arrives, it’s a different story. I’ve never met a beach I didn’t like. Packing for my ideal vacation involves bathing suits, flip flops, sun dresses and tanning lotion. The hotter the weather, the better. I notice humidity, but it doesn’t interfere with my day.


However, none of this stopped me from joining a ski trip to the Italian Alps.

First thing was a call to my Sister the Skier to borrow her clothes. “Sure!” she said, “come right over.” So I did. She was thrilled to share her skiing excitement. There was long thermal underwear, ski pants and a shirt with

Maybe I can't ski, but I can pose.

sleeves that hooked over my thumbs to prevent wind from whipping up my arm. It was here that trepidation started to creep into my tropical soul. There were special socks with padding designed for comfort in ski boots. (I was warned not to wear these in regular shoes; I have no idea why.) There was a hooded ski jacket with special interior pockets for money & ID. “Why would I need ID?” I wanted to ask. But when visions flashed through my mind of being lost among the Italian Alpine trees, freezing and waiting for a Saint Bernard with a cask of brandy, too cold to move my jaw and say my name, I decided not to ask.

The wardrobe extravaganza wasn’t done. There were special gloves with compartments to slip something called a ski pass. There were little squares of hand warmers wrapped in gold foil in case the gloves weren’t warm enough. There was a knit woolen hat that fit snugly on my head, guaranteed to produce hours of hat hair. Then there was the gator. This wide circle of fleece slips over the head and rests around the neck. Yes, this is on top of the special shirt, turtleneck, jacket and hood. “In case it’s really cold, damp and windy, this comes in handy!” said my Sister the Skier, in a joyful tone more appropriate to lending me a diamond necklace for the Oscars than spending an afternoon in the blinding cold. But this kind of baffling enthusiasm, I would soon learn, is typical of ski lovers. She offered her goggles. I declined, saying that my wrap-around style sun glasses should work just fine. Of course, I had no idea. I just needed to say ‘no’ to something. I was being buried in bad news.

Arrival in Italy: I meet my compatriots and I’m desperately seeking other novices. I meet two beginners, but no novices. Instead, I mostly meet dyed in the wool veteran ski club members. Their individual and collective enthusiasm is contagious, although I have no idea why. I find myself looking forward to cold and snow. I wonder if I’ve gone insane.

Not very convincing, is it?

Day One of Skiing: It’s early morning when I amble to our communal breakfast in my Suit of Many Layers. It’s an effort to bend my elbow to feed myself. “Are you skiing today?” Several people ask me. “Of course!” I answer, under the heady effects of ski-loving Kool-Aid. It seems foggy outside to me, but no one else mentions it. I conclude that it must not be an issue.

We make our way to the ski shop where I hang behind and watch the veterans navigate the equipment. Everyone knows what they want. Everyone knows what to do with what they get. Everyone can’t get out of the shop fast enough and onto the slopes, which are increasingly obscured by the fog. I watch their smiling faces as one by one they hoist a pair of skis onto one shoulder, an arm casually thrown over the front for counter-balance, both poles in the other hand. It all looks easy, smooth and cool. I’m excited because soon, I will look just like them.

I wait until everyone in my group has their equipment, as I am in no hurry. I enter the shop and catch the eye of an unsuspecting staff member. He naturally expects me to be as knowledgeable as everyone else in my group. He is in denial when I am not. He has a hard time believing how clueless I am. His denial prolongs the process and makes me irritable. I keep asking for help anyway, as I have no option. Finally, he gets it. He helps me into the ski boots and locks me in. I can’t believe how uncomfortable they feel. “They’re really tight; is this normal?” I ask. “Yes.” I stand. “I can’t straighten my legs; is this normal?” “Yes.” But I instinctively try to straighten them anyway, and feel a shooting pain up the back of my calves with every step. I look out the window and the fog is now so thick that I can’t see the mountain, which as I recall is about 100 steps away and straight up. I can’t imagine 100 steps in the fog with this pain shooting up the back of my leg. In this moment, I can’t imagine why anybody skis.

He hands me the skis and poles and is happy to see me go. I slowly and painfully make my way outside. Someone takes pity on me and says “If you walk heel-toe, it’s easier.” I try it and it is easier. Not easy; easier. Not painless; easier. I decide to take what I can get.

Now it’s time to throw the skis over my shoulder and look cool. But like every other aspect of this experience, it’s harder than it looks. The skis are heavy and slippery; traits you want on the slopes but not on your shoulder. (This may explain why skis are worn and not carried during the skiing experience.) The skis are held together back-to-back at the bindings, so the bindings are facing out. And they’re uncomfortable. And they’re smack in the middle of the skis, so I slide them in front of my shoulder. This is more comfortable but now I’m struggling to balance them. I finally get them set and step out with my first heel-toe and the skis slip completely off my shoulder. But that’s OK, I can catch them with my other hand. Oh, no I can’t. I have a pair of poles in that hand. Now skis and poles crash to the ground. I decide the shoulder-carry is too cool for me right now. Instead, I hold the skis vertically in one hand, poles in the other. I am mystified why anyone would consider this a good time.

I slowly make my way toward what I hope is the bunny slope. I can’t really tell because the fog is now so thick that the mountain has disappeared. I just travel haltingly in the direction of other skiers. Finally, I can make out a kiosk and the other 2 “beginners” in my group. I catch up to within shouting distance of them. They are above me on an incline and I can’t imagine how I’ll get there. I’m now off the pavement and on the snow, where I believe the skis were meant to be. So I drop them and realize I have no idea how to get them on. My friend Cindy, who thinks she’s a beginner but is soon revealed to be an intermediate, shouts instructions on how to attach the skis.



Me with my intrepid skiing friends: Cindy Bigras, Susan Van Allen & Lisa del Percio.



Riccardo, our instructor, shouts in my direction and demonstrates the horizontal, incremental creep one performs to move up a small incline. I imitate him and snail my way up. It’s then that I notice individual drops of blood in the snow. I am horrified. Who is bleeding? How were they injured? My eyes follow the crimson drops that lead to a man lying on his side, propped up on his elbow, looking more like he’s on a couch across from a TV than losing vital life fluids in the frozen earth. I realize he’s had a nose bleed and is collecting himself. His skis are still on and he looks OK, certainly calmer than me. It’s another example of the ever-optimistic skier. No need to get off the slopes; just wait until the bleeding stops, pop back up and swoosh down the mountain.

Dear Lord, take me to the beach.

Italian Dance Competition for New Choreographers

The Alto Jonio Dance Company from the town of Villapiana, Calabria, is coming to NYC looking for emerging choreographic talent. On December 26 and 27, 2011, a competition will be held at New York City Center Studios, 130 West 56th Street in Manhattan for the best of the best.

The competition will consist of 2 separate pieces for each contestant: a solo and a trio or duet. Performances will take place on December 26 with callbacks on December 27.
The winner will be flown to Villapiana during its annual dance Festival in July, 2012 and be awarded the title of Alto Jonio Dance – Emerging Choreographer, as well as free room, board and tuition to study and perform during the Festival. Visit altojonicodance.com for full details and registration information.

The jury panel for the New York competition will include Antonio Fini, Michael Mao, founder and Artistic Director of Michael Mao Dance Company, Kevin Alpert and Nicola Iervasi, respectively the Executive Director and Artistic Director of Mare Nostrum Elements Movement Theater, Virginie Maecenas, former first dancer of the Martha Graham Dance Company and now Director of the Martha Graham School of Contemporary Dance and Noa Guy, internationally renowned musician and composer.

The Alto Jonio Dance Company is the latest endeavor by its artistic director, Antonio Fini, and is already making a name for itself. Its premier festival held in Villapiana last summer featured dance luminaries such as Donatello Iacobellis, choreographer with the MOMIX dance company, one of the world’s most famous companies.

While At The Table No One Grows Old

“You must visit Nonna. She lives in the village and seldom has visitors, but she absolutely makes the best dolci!” An enthusiastic endorsement like this prompted many journeys for Francine Segan, food historian, author and speaker, in her search for the very best Italian sweets. These treasured recipes are now in her latest book, Dolci, Italy’s Sweets.

Ms. Segan wanted to collect not only the recipes from generations past but also the ones served today in contemporary Italian kitchens. She met with famous chefs, contacted infamous Italian bloggers and visited the kitchens of Italian grandmothers. Her book guides us through Italy’s hills and valleys, nooks and crannies, as she cooks, tastes and records these luscious desserts.

Ms. Segan celebrated the launch of the book at The National Arts Club in the Gramercy Park section of Manhattan on November 10, 2011. Always an engaging speaker, she recounted stories of her latest trips to Italy and her search for divine desserts. She told of one Nonna who kept Francine in her kitchen for 6 hours until she “got the recipes right”. Still, I can think of worse ways to spend a day than in a warm cucina filled with aromas of chocolate and fruit.

The book is beautifully illustrated and the recipes are taken from all over Italy. Chapters are devoted to after-dinner liqueurs and special coffees. Ms. Segan includes a smattering of history and folklore among the dolci, as well as some of her favorite Italian food proverbs. For example, instead of an apple a day keeps the doctor away, due dita di vino e’ una pedata al medico (two fingers of wine is a kick in the butt to the doctor). And my personal favorite: a tavola non s’invecchia (while at the table no one grows old).

You can purchase Dolci: Italy’s Sweets at amazon.com. To learn more about Francine Segan, visit francinesegan.com.

A famous face turns and smiles broadly. A camera clicks. A bulb flashes. A moment in time is preserved forever. This ritual occurred countless times in 1950’s Italy. The paparazzi, who would not be so named until Fellini’s La Dolce Vita film in 1960, chronicled every celebrity arrival, shopping spree, bacchanal, stolen private moment and eventual departure. The Italian public, still recovering and psychologically escaping from the ravages of WWII, seemed to have an insatiable appetite for the celebrities in their midst. Celebrities symbolized an Italy moving forward, progressing toward a better future. Not only did Italy send its famous to Hollywood, but Hollywood also came to Italy, specifically to film at Cinecitta’.

La Dolce Vita – 1950 – 1960; Stars and Celebrities in the Italian Fifties is a photographic exhibition celebrating this unique period. Italy was reveling in the peace of the mid-20th century. It had time to be frivolous and a strong desire to distance itself from the horrors of war. It feasted on the wild and wealthy lives of the famous. This hunger was fed by a steady diet of movie magazines, fattened by gossip columnists and photojournalists.



Photographs are tricks of light. They capture the image in front of the camera, but that’s only the beginning. Photographs also reveal something about the person behind the camera and the society in which they both exist. At the Dolce Vita exhibition, all of these elements are in play. At first glance, the images are captivating because of the celebrities they showcase. But with closer inspection the images reveal what is around the celebrity: the fans, the looks of adoration, the autograph books offered in hope of capturing in writing what the camera captured in light.

The women’s dresses, jewelry, shoes, gloves and purses and the men’s shirts, ties, suits and sweaters tell a story. And not only of the celebrity but more interestingly, of who surrounds them. They perch on vespas, sit at café tables, dance in nightclubs. They look happy, surprised and a little uncomfortable. This is Italy at a unique moment, on the cusp of an era that would move faster and faster toward an unknown future. Fascinated by images and stories of celebrity decadence, what scandalized Italians then feels almost quaint now. This is an Italy that existed for a time and is no more.



The exhibition is curated by Marco Panella, promoted by Ministro del Turismo, Cinecitta’ and Artix. Consisting of 84 black and white images, most have never been seen in public before. They are on display throughout Eataly, 200 5th Avenue in Manhattan, hanging from the ceiling rafters throughout the store. The exhibition lasts until November 14.

After you’ve been beguiled by the Italy of the ‘50’s, delight your stomach with dinner at nearby SD26 located at 19 East 26th Street. This is the latest restaurant run by Tony and Marisa May, the same father/daughter team who served New York at San Domenico’s Restaurant on Central Park South since 1988. SD26 serves contemporary Italian cuisine with a 750 labels Wine List. When I dined there I met Matt Dillon. Maybe I brought some of that celebrity-vibe with me from the Dolce Vita exhibition.

Naples – You Won’t Believe It Until You See It

Naples – what can I say that you haven’t already heard? It’s crowded, noisy, hectic, colorful. It has the Bay, Vesuvius and the world’s best pizza. Here’s something you may not have heard: Naples is a destination. Yes, you read that right. Not just a place to travel through on your way to Capri or Sorrento. Naples is an almost unbelievable combination of high and low, sweet and sour, rough and smooth. Naples has to be experienced, and not just for a few hours. Spend some time in this one of a kind city and I’ll bet you’ll be smitten.

I stayed at the Grand Hotel Santa Lucia on the breathtaking Via Partenope. It’s elegantly appointed in an old world style and the staff really goes the extra mile for its guests. The rooms are spacious and quiet. At night I turned off the air conditioner and threw open the French doors to allow the sounds of Naples to wash over me while I slept. In the morning, I opened the curtains to see the sun’s rays over the Bay of Naples, Mount Vesuvius, the islands of Capri and Ischia, the Comencini marina with its brightly colored fishing boats and the Castel dell’Ovo (more about that later). Room price includes full breakfast served in a sunlit room off the lobby.

You can always grab a late-morning cappuccino at Gran Caffe Gambrinus on Via Chiaia. Perhaps Naples’ most storied café, it was a hub of elite literary life in the early 20th century. The surroundings are opulent, complete with chandeliers and a grand piano. Imagine yourself swapping stories with Ernest Hemingway (a frequent patron) while you indulge in gelato, pastry and specialty chocolate creations.

Naples is a truly urban multi-cultural Italian environment. Narrow streets, graffiti, fast cars, buzzing vespas. This isn’t Tuscany, baby. It’s something else - more challenging, more surprising, maybe more frustrating. As a tourist in any big city, you have to keep your eyes and ears open. But you should be doing that anyway, to take in what Naples offers the intrepid traveler. Storefronts line Spaccanapoli in the historic district, offering treasures of artisanal craftsmanship alongside tourist chatskis. You have to learn the difference. Trattorias, gellaterias, pizzerias; it doesn’t stop. There’s plenty to do, whether it’s out on the street, inside a centuries-old structure, on the waves, underwater or underground.

Here’s just a summary:

The Capodimonte Museum. Built during the reign of Charles VII of Naples and Sicily, this Bourbon palazzo is home to a vast collection of artistic treasures. Paintings from the 13th – 18th centuries include stunning works by major names like El Greco, Caravaggio, Titian and Raphael. Part of the Farnese collection of sculpture is housed here, as well as furniture, porcelain and majolica gathered from royal residences.


Naples National Archeological Museum. This is considered by many to be Italy’s most important archeological museum, and in Italy, that’s saying a lot. Its holdings include marbles, bronzes and mosaics from Greek and Roman antiquity. It houses Italy’s third largest Egyptian art collection and an impressive collection of Roman erotic art.
http://www.marketplace.it/museo.nazionale/emuseo_home.htm

Cappella Sansevero. Also known as the Chapel of Santa Maria della Pieta, this small space in Naples’ historic district is bursting with work from some of Italy’s best 18th century artists. Here you can be mesmerized by the quiet, mournful beauty of Sanmartino’s Veiled Christ, while being surrounded by majestic Baroque sculpture. www.museosansevero.it

Castel dell’Ovo. The Castle is named for the legend that the poet Virgil placed an egg in its foundation and, as long as the egg is unbroken, the Castle will survive. The spaces within the Castle are marked with stone archways and afford beautiful views of the Bay of Naples on one side and the charming marina on the other. The Castle hosts art exhibitions, conferences and weddings. The long, bricked causeway leading to the Castle is a popular spot for wedding pictures.

Agnano Spa. This beautiful spa is located just outside of Naples and easily reached by train. Located in a volcanic crater, the area’s hot springs soothed the aching muscles of ancient Greeks and Romans alike. The spa includes natural tuft stone formations that create 5 separate dry heat sauna experiences, progressing from mild to OMG it’s hot! But don’t worry, it’s nothing a dip in one of the indoor or outdoor pools can’t cure. Or perhaps a mud treatment. Or perhaps a meal in the delectable restaurant.

Cuma. Located northwest of Naples, this was the first Greek settlement on Italy’s mainland when it was considered Magna Grecia (Greater Greece). Dating back to probably the 8th century B.C., it was the seat of the Cumaean Sibyl, the prophetess presiding over the Oracle of Apollo. A large crater lake nearby was a mythological entrance to the underworld. Today Cuma is a fascinating archeological site open to the public.

Pompei. About 40 minutes outside of Naples, Pompei is a must see. No matter how jaded a tourist you might think you are, Pompei will amaze you. It’s larger than you expect and the sheer number of details illustrating ancient daily living invite you to consider your place in civilization’s continuum. Buy your water/souvenirs before you reach the site.

What to do underground:
Subterranean Naples. Visit the city below the city. Remnants of ancient Greece and Rome survive in the form of aquaducts, cisterns and winding tunnels emptying into large cavities. During the bombardment of WWII, many Neapolitans moved here to protect themselves. These days, the stone labyrinth hosts daily tours and classical musical concerts.

San Gennaro Catacombs. This is an underground Pagan and Christian burial site dating back to the 3rd century. Unlike the Roman catacombs, these are spacious and (believe it or not) airy, allowing you to stand up straight as you walk among some of the oldest and most evocative frescos in Italy. The Catacombs were consecrated to San Gennaro in the 5th century, when his remains found a home here. The Catacombs house a church, a baptismal font and of course, graves. The complete cycle of life and death was commemorated here. Take a tour with one of their impressively knowledgeable guides and emerge into the sunlight a little wiser.

What to do on the water:
Take one of the entertainment boats docked in the Bay of Naples marina and sail gracefully onto the water for an unforgettable evening. Appetizers and cool breezes above deck, followed by a full course dinner below. After dinner, return above deck for dancing to a live band and delighting in the glow of the full moon (when I was there). This is a popular date spot for the locals; why shouldn’t it be for you, too?

What to do underwater:
Go snorkeling or scuba diving in ancient waters and peek into Roman villas from centuries past. Statutes, pillars, pottery, even tile floors remain in the depths to be enjoyed. You can explore the underwater cities of Baia and Portus Julius in a glass-bottom boat at Baia Underwater Park, if getting wet isn’t your thing.
centrosubcampiflegrei.it

How to get there:
Meridiana Eurofly has frequent, conveniently scheduled flights direct to Naples Airport from JFK.