Musings on Italian shoes, Siena and a linquistic cautionary tale...

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

There was the time my friend Lena and I went to Siena. We walked all over that beautiful city, tracing the circular patterns of its narrow stone streets for hours. We marveled over how we were doing this in Italian shoes purchased only the day before...and neither one of us wearing socks. My shoes were medium heeled, black suede, square toe, adorned with silver and black metal shapes across the upper. Hers were low heeled, black suede loafers that were crafted so stylishly they made you forget that penny loafers ever existed. After hours of walking on stone surfaces, our feet still felt like they were encased in clouds. No blisters, bleeding or painful stepping. This, we decided, is why Italian women are always wearing beautiful shoes no matter what they're doing. Because they can. Because they are always comfortable. They have no reason to reach for shlubby sneakers ever. (Just to clarify, this was the mid 1990's, well before the stylish sneakers we now enjoy were available. But even now, the Italian ones look and feel better). This theory was reinforced later in the trip when we drove past an elderly, rather stout Italian woman walking up a hill in a pair of black pumps with narry a trace of discomfort on her serene face. This woman was walking up a hill in heels, and she was happy about it. Surely Italian shoemaking secrets can help bring about world peace.


But back to Siena. At this point, we had finished a wonderful dinner in one of the restaurants in il campo, the main piazza. We were trying to find our way back to the parking garage to get our car. I say "trying" because it wasn't easy. As I mentioned earlier, the streets of Siena are built in a kind of circular fashion. This leads to all kinds of interesting paths, whether you're trying to make sense out of a street sign or the directions a kind soul has just given you in rapid fire Italian, complete with at least 3 options to get to your destination. To give you an idea of what we were up against with the street signs, at one point we raised our weary eyes to a big sign screaming "Parking Garage" (Yes! in English!). We thought we were saved; all we had to do was follow the arrow. Make that 2 arrows. Each pointing in an opposite direction. Oh, the joys of circles.


By this time, the streets were dark and the stores were closed. Most of them had metal grates pulled across the windows so we couldn't see what they were selling. We kept walking and asking and reading and yawning and sitting. It was during one of these sit-downs that we read the sign over the store next to us that read "Morbidi". (Please keep in mind that this was only our first or second trip to Italy, so we knew very little Italian between us. I was still making the rookie mistake of thinking that if an Italian word sounded like an English word, it must mean the same thing). Morbidi? Morbid? What kind of a store is that? What on earth are they selling? Caskets? Cemetary supplies? Ewwww.

The following day we got ourselves an Italian-English dictionary because we had to figure out what that store was selling. We found morbido, the singular version of morbidi. It means "tender, soft". The store was probably selling lingerie, jewelry or any number of adorable things. Not caskets. We looked at each other in horror and then burst out laughing. We spent many happy hours since then singing "Love Me Morbidi" to the tune of "Love Me Tender". So it wasn't a total loss.

Click here to view selections from Carolyn's Photograhic Collection "Italy Through The Eyes Of Love"

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How Did All This Italy Stuff Get Started, Anyway?

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

My first trip to Italy was in 1995, for 2 glorious weeks in October. It was a trip of several firsts for me: first vacation with a girlfriend, first villa rental, first overseas car rental and of course, my maiden voyage to the land of half of my ancestors (the land of the other half, Sweden, would have to wait).

It was perfect timing for Lena (not her real name) and I. Each of us had finished with a marriage and freed ourselves from romantic entanglements for the time being. Each of us had migrated to California from our East Coast origins. Although we had moved for our own personal reasons and at separate times (we had only met a year or two beforehand), we found ourselves sharing some very similar life experiences and open-ended, who-knows-what's-going-to-happen-to-us-from-here future uncertainties. So, it was the perfect time for a vacation.

Fast forward to a gloomy, gray and damp-cold winter day. If you were a fly on the living room ceiling, you'd look down and see the San Francisco Chronicle Travel Classified Section spread out on the floor. Next to that, a world atlas (because we weren't sure where a lot of the places we were reading about actually were). Interspersed among the papers, you'd see glasses of red wine constantly moving from hand to mouth to floor to hand to mouth as two women study the information laid out before them with all the intensity of the Normandy invasion. From your vantage point on the ceiling, you'd hear "Fiji! Let's go to Fiji!" "Yeah! Where is Fiji?" "I don't know; I'm checking the atlas! I don't know where to start; doesn't this atlas have an index?" and on and on.

We almost decided on Fiji, until I saw an unassuming little ad that said something like "Rent a Villa in Tuscany". It sounded right to me. It sounded right to her. Although she'd already been to Italy and had some idea of what we'd be in for, I had no idea whatsoever. Looking back, we were happy at that moment with our decision, but there was no fanfare, no instantly recognizeable bolt of universal confirmation. Instead, it just sort of snuck up on us. It just seemed like a good idea at the time. I didn't have a clue as to how it would alter my life.

So much has changed since then. After several trips to Italy and some astonishing life experiences, Lena and I lost contact a few years ago. As for me, Italy has continued to beckon and I have answered as often as I could. I've traveled throughout the country, taken classes in language and dance, planned many a foreigner's wedding in Italy (Italians don't need to hire a wedding planner; they've got mothers and grandmothers and aunts and cousins), attended conferences, concerts, birthday parties, lost my way down dark narrow streets and found myself in places I never knew existed.

Click here to view selections from Carolyn's Photograhic Collection "Italy Through The Eyes Of Love"

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Our New Photo Exhibit in Tuckahoe, New York!

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

We are preparing for an exhibit of selections from my photographic collection, Italy, Through the Eyes of Love, at the Westchester Italian Cultural Center in Tuckahoe, New York (http://www.wiccny.org/). The exhibit opens with a reception on Tuesday, April 29 from 6-8 pm and continues until July 31.

We’re very excited and proud to have been invited to show the photographs at the Center. We’re working with some wonderful people, like Evelyn Rossetti, Executive Director and Anne Marie Annuciato, Director of Events.

The Westchester Italian Cultural Center is associated with the Generoso Pope Foundation. It's the focal point for lovers of Italian culture in the area. They sponsor artistic exhibits (naturally!), Italian films, lectures, cooking classes, language classes, special children’s programs and highlight the wine and culture of particular Italian regions throughout the year.

If you’ve never been to the Center, it’s an elegant and impressive building. After a recent multi-million dollar renovation, it houses exhibit halls, a theater, library, professional kitchen and wine cellar. The architecture is gracefully appointed with careful attention to detail. It’s a feast for the eyes.

There are so many details that need attention and we’re hoping not to miss any! Jefferson designed the banners that will hang outside of the building announcing the exhibit.

He also designed the postcards that will be mailed to Center members. Still to do: design a slideshow of images and text for the electronic totem that stands in the front lobby; design the price list complete with images of each work, create the title cards for each photograph, decide where each work will be displayed, and that’s only what I can remember right now!


We’ll be showing works in various mediums; some will be matted and framed, some printed onto canvas without frames, and some on unframed on photographic paper. The unframed works will be displayed on black metal grid panels.

Our goal is to create a visual environment that invites each viewer into their own personal experience of Italy.

For this exhibit, I had to create a new Artist’s Statement and write my bio. I thought you might like to see them:



Artist’s Statement:

My journey as a photographer reflects my relationship with Italy itself.


I’d never been interested in photography until I started traveling to Italy. For my first few trips, starting in 1995, I didn’t even bring a camera. Although I was happy to share stories about my trips, At that time, I had the sense that I didn’t want to share what I had seen with anyone when I returned; I wanted to keep my visual experience private. I couldn’t explain why. But looking back, I see it more clearly. Those initial trips were my first steps on a personal healing journey. In many ways it was like entering therapy; both wonderfully liberating and at times, deeply painful.

At some point, as I was preparing for an Italian trip, it crossed my mind that if I took pictures there, I would come back with some great images. So, I bought a camera (I’m not kidding; I didn’t own one!) and saw Italy through a lens for the first time. I never expected anyone but me to care about my photographs, so I was surprised by the positive responses they received when I returned home.

The camera became my constant companion in Italy, and it continues to be an integral part of my healing journey. My relationship with Italy is like that of a lover; it brings me great happiness and some of my deepest disappointments.

But I can't imagine my life without it.

My photographs reflect what I value most about Italian life: its subtle surprises, freshness and the constant invitation to consider the familiar in unfamiliar ways. In that spirit, Italy continually invites me to look at myself with new eyes.





Biography:

Carolyn Masone was born in Brooklyn New York to an Italian-Swedish family, where the Italian influence always dominated. Her upbringing in New Jersey was filled with Italian culture; the music, dancing, cuisine, celebrations and strong sense of family. Her father Nicholas, a first-generation Italian-American, spoke longingly of someday traveling to Italy, but never had the opportunity. Nonetheless, the family traveled often and Carolyn's wanderlust was born.

She journeyed to Italy for the first time in 1995 and has never been the same. Enchanted by feeling at home in a place she had never been before, she remains under its spell. Carolyn knew that first trip would change her life; perhaps gradually, but nonetheless profoundly. Over time, her traditional career path took a back seat to more creative professions that would further connect her to Italy. She joined a company that planned weddings in Italy and became a destination wedding planner. Although no longer with that company, she continues to plan weddings for couples from all over the world who dream of marrying in Italy.

Carolyn's photographic collection, Italy, Through The Eyes of Love, has received worldwide attention. They appear in private collections nationwide as well as in Australia, England, France and of course, Italy. Her work has been exhibited in New Jersey, New York and, in 2009, in Lucca, Tuscany.

In 2004, together with Jefferson Harman, they created a venture called Essence of Italy, showcasing her unique perspective on the Italian experience. In 2007, they launched a website, http://www.essenceofitaly.net/, through which Carolyn presents her beautiful photographs and publishes lively tales of her travel adventures. Thanks to the connections she's made through these experiences, she researches, writes and records podcast interviews with interesting people who highlight unexpected aspects of Italian life.

She often returns to Italy to attend various classes, workshops, festivals and to visit dear friends. All the while her camera goes with her, allowing images to speak through the lens to the viewer, evoking emotion, history and dreams.

"If I had to sum up what the photography, writing and interviewing are really about, it's about the journey of setting your dreams free. It doesn't matter what form they take. It's where real joy and deep healing come from." For Carolyn, her photographs truly present Italy, Through the Eyes of Love.

A Chocolate Festival in Italy in October? Really?

This article is a transcript of our podcast that can be found on our www.essenceofitaly.net Podcast page. Please note that this festival occurs in October of every year.


Yes, really! Imagine combining unlimited amounts of the world's most tantalizing chocolate with Italy, one of the world's finest vacation destinations...che bello!

From October 13-21st, 2007, the city of Perugia in Umbria (home of the Perugina chocolate dynasty) opens its arms to the world for its annual Chocolate Festival. The world's finest chocolatiers and the tourists who love them (that's us!) will be there to experience chocolate like never before. From scuplting to eating, from nightlife to spa treatments and children's activities, it's your own personal journey through the Chocolate Factory (apologies to Charlie and Willy Wonka). You can luxuriate in chocolate for the entire Festival, or stop in for just a day or two as you travel through Italy.

Here are just some of the Festival events:

On Sunday, October 14th, watch as five artisans carve blocks of chocolate into intricate scupltures. Be there to catch the chocolate pieces as they fly from the artist's tools!

Throughout the Festival, children under 12 can enjoy the Chocofarm. Here, they learn about the sourcing, making and enjoying of chocolate through special games and activities.

Wine and dine yourself silly as Perugia's restaurants create house specialites that highlight the Festival's theme. Be surprised and delighted as traditional dishes receive innovative twists of chocolate.

Nightlife throughout the Festival is truly unique. Perugia's nightclubs interweave chocolate confections along with their regular menu items. Music, dancing and strolling through the piazza will keep you busy until the wee hours.

After all this, you'll need some spa treatments, don't you think? Perugia's acclaimed Beauty Palace Spa will design a menu of treatments that allow the beauty of chocolate to penetrate and rejuvenate your skin. Cocoa butters and powders will enhance the treatments, leaving you relaxed and practically edible. Due to popular demand, it's recommended that you reserve your spa date before the Festival, but after September 1. You can contact them at info@beautypalace.it.

Along with the fun and frolic, the Chocolate Festival will highlight fair trade partners and developments in sustainable chocolate agriculture (chocgriculture? Sorry, I couldn't resist).

Check out the Festival's website at: www.eurochocolate.com and click on Eurochocolate, Perugia. However, since the site is not fully translated into English, you can contact me for more information by clicking on 'comments' below.

Click here to view selections from Carolyn's Photograhic Collection "Italy Through The Eyes Of Love"

Click here to send beautiful ecards or to download exquisite desktop wallpapers from our unique selection.

This article and the images contained herein are protected by copyright laws and may not be copied without permission.

A Tuscan Villa Built on a Dream

This is a transcript of the podcast appearing on our www.essenceofitaly.net Podcast page.

Have you ever dreamed of building your own villa in Tuscany? Not only for yourself to live in, but a place where tourists would vacation from all over the world? What if your days were spent surrounded by olive trees and vineyards, making new friends, learning new languages, enjoying wonderful food and wine?

What if you didn't have a trust fund to make this dream come true, but you had to build it with your own two hands, as the money slowly came in, while you had a full time job?

That was the situation confronting my guest, Gabriele Corti. Gabriele was born and raised in the Tuscan town of Poggibonsi, not far from Castellina. He worked 6 days a week in his family's shoe store. His father, Franco, purchased the Le Buche property, which was little more than open fields and crumbling structures, with a very different idea of how that land would be used.

Gabriele, your family owned this property for many years. How did that come about?

Gabriele: My father, 20 years ago, bought about 30 hectares of land with old houses, stalls and some fields. He bought it to make a little wine, a little olive oil, to grow a garden with tomatoes and othe vegetables. In 1995-96, I built the main house for me to live in. I started construction in 1955-96 and it was finished in 1999. I moved here from Poggibonsi in July of '99.

Carolyn: When Gabriele says he built the main house, he doesn't mean that he called a contractor. It means he built it with his own two hands, while working full time in the shoe store.

During that time, Gabriele saw other villas in Tuscany that catered to tourists, and he was intrigued by the idea. At the same time, his father came to him with the idea of building 1 or 2 apartments on the property for tourists.

Gabriele, what did you think of your father's idea?

Gabriele: I thought it was a good idea, but I told him that if we left things as they were, the idea wouldn't work. Because there would be nothing for a client to do once they got here, except travel to nearby towns; it's just a house in a pretty setting. In the following years beginning in 2000, my father and I build 2 apartments with the intention of renting them to foreign tourists as well as Italians who wanted to come here for vacation.

The apartments came out very beautiful, very pleasing. But there was still a large are that remained unfinished. We didn't have the pool, we didn't have the gardens yet. We had to think things through and provide things for people to do while they were here in the apartments. We had to come up with a plan.

Carolyn: One of the most appealing things about Le Buche is that all of the construction was done by Gabriele and his father, not by hired hands. The vast majority of the building materials came from Le Buche land.

Gabriele: The construction was done personally. First, at the beginning of it all, I designed it all in my mind, how it would come out. But, it was a little impractical. And slowly, slowly, stone after stone, stone after stone, Le Buche became a reality.

From when we started this construction, I always followed the construction personally. All the while, I learned things large and small that would be useful to me in the future to make something myself. The process was very interesting.

Carolyn: Gabriele created comfortable spaces in the traditional Tuscan style, using authentic materials from the property itself. He used stones from the land to build the apartments, line the driveway and create the patio, walkways and outdoor ovens and grills. Gabriele handcrafted much of the wooden furniture, also from Le Buche trees.

Gabriele: Very satisfying. From an idea that was only in my mind, into reality. Using stones from here, buying a little cement, a little iron and that was enough. So much work.

Carolyn: You'll notice the architectural details throughout the apartments; archways trimmed in hand-polished wood or brick, hand-laid tile floors and interior walls of exposed stone. The wooden beams that cross the ceilings and appear throughout the architecture are all from Le Buche trees.

Gabriele: But, when it was over, I was paid in my satisfaction for the result. It is so much more beautiful than it would have been if I had paid someone else to construct it for me. When you can do it for yourself, it's better.

We worked hard until the end of 2000, into 2001. The pool was built in 2001. Its first season was May 1, 2002. The pool is open from May 1 to October 1, weather permitting. The pool also has a small children's area, and the deep end in 2.5 meters, with a small diving board. We started renting in April of 2002 and started this new venture.

Carolyn: Guests come to Le Buche from all over the world.

Gabriele: The guests are from all over the world, Germany, France, Holland, Switzerland, America, Canada, New Zealand, Hong Kong, Finland, Norway, England, Spain, Portugal and also Italian tourists. About 95% are tourists from outside of Italy.

Carolyn: Although Le Buche is becoming established as a successful vacation spot, Gabriele still does plenty of dreaming for its future. Gabriele, would you say that Le Buch is finished now?

Gabriele: No, Le Buche will never be finished! Every year I do something new. This year I cleared an area and made a court t play bacci ball. Next year, I will design a garden for Le Stalle. Maybe I'll make a small stone walkway. Every year I do something. Every year I make something.

Carolyn: Some of Gabriele's dreams for Le Buche center around wine and olive oil.

Gabriele: You could say that the wine-making tradition was passed down to me from my father. He is from San Donato and in the fields around there he made a small vineyard. It is a passion that is very strong in our blood. I made a new vineyard three years ago. This is the first year of my production. The amount is small, but I hope it's very good.

We have the most beautiful region of Italy to make our olive oil. Oil is very important because most tourists that come here look for tranquility and good food, and oil is fundamental to good food. They also look for culture. In Tuscany, the culture of olive oil is a grand tradition.

In the future, I would like to make a small argricultural business where I can sell the products of the vineyards, wine and olive oil. It's something that's important to me. It's a lot of work and it takes some money to accomplish. I would also need more equipment, but it's something that I would do gladly, for the love of it. It's something fundamental. In the future, we'll see if this dream is realized; who knows?

Carolyn: To learn more, visit the Le Buche website. You can find the link on our Links page.

Click here to view selections from Carolyn's Photograhic Collection "Italy Through The Eyes Of Love"

Click here to send beautiful ecards or to download exquisite desktop wallpapers from our unique selection.

This article and the images contained herein are protected by copyright laws and may not be copied without permission.

Spending Quality Time in Lecce

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

The landscape of Lecce is mostly flat and dry, dotted with cactus plants taller than the average Italian. This can be a jolt to the system if you expect all of Italy to look like Tuscany; it doesn't. Although a small country, Italy offers a wide variety of landscape. Due to the drier southern climate, you won't see expanses of lush greenery, but it has other charms. Herbs grow wild along the sides of the road. If you're cooking, it's fun to pull over and pick fresh rosemary to add to your lunch or dinner. Luckily, there's an oasis of greenery in Lecce's public park.

It's a large space filled with palm trees, gardens, benches and a majestic gazebo with a gleaming, tiled dome. Open every day until sunset, it's where everyone brings kids, dogs and books to wile away the afternoon. Outside of the park, the houses and modern buildings tend to be low with flat roofs (except in the historic center, described below). This creates somewhat of a "barracks" feel as you look around.

Lecce is located just about dead center of the heel of the Italian boot; a peninsula within a peninsula. Consequently, there is easy access to beaches on the eastern coast of the heel (Adriatic Sea) and the western coast of the heel (Ionian Sea). On any given day, you can choose your coast depending upon which way the wind is blowing. I'm not kidding. When the wind is blowing due east, go to the Adriatic. When it blows to the west, go to the Ionian coast. When you have so much sandy, clear beachfront at your disposal, you can afford to be picky. The arid landscape changes dramatically as you head out of town toward the beaches. Believe me, what this area might lack in verdant hillsides it makes up for in stunning seascapes. The land gives way to a seemingly endless expanse of crystal blue sky and sea. You can reach a nearby beach, Torre di Chianca, by bus from several stops in Lecce. In August, the height of tourist season, this beach is full of playful people and structures brimming with food, cafes, changing rooms, rafts and various water toys. However, if you go off-season (I was there in October), you'll only hear the sound of the waves and seabirds. The structures remain on the beach, but they are empty and brightly painted in a style heavy with Greek and Arab influences. The sand is soft and the water is clean, clear and warm, even in October.

The historic center of Lecce (centro storico) is why the town is called The Florence of the South. Filled with churches constructed in Baroque style, it's easy to lose yourself and your way in the labyrinth of narrow streets. Eventually you'll reach the Piazza del Duomo, the architectural centerpiece of town. Splendid in daylight, it's especially beguiling at night. Indirect lighting installed throughout the Piazza illuminates the statuary, creating an ethereal atmosphere. Lecce is all about walking, and this is a great place to catch your breath.

The historic center is also the place to go for entertainment. Restaurants, bars, movie theaters and gelato abound. A great place for a light meal or tasty snack is Sybarite, whose doors open onto the Piazza del Duomo. It's open all day and well into the night. The atmosphere is casual, the service is friendly and the food, delicious and imaginative.

Another "don't miss" is Liberrima located at Corte dei Cicala, 1. Although it calls itself a bookstore, it is so much more. In addition to multi-language books ranging from the classics to art and travel, it offers books on tape, videos, DVDs and music CDs. I especially like the local music selection that lets me hear musicians and styles that are hard to find elsewhere. Just outside the front door is the Liberrima Cafe, where umbrelled tables lend a party atmosphere to the piazza. Films are sometimes shown against one wall of the piazza, so you can sip your drink and laugh along with Charlie Chaplin and Buster Keaton, to name a few.

After you've eaten your fill, bought some books and seen a silent film, what to do next? Like so many other Italian cities, in Lecce you can walk out of anyplace directly onto an excavation of subterranean Roman structures. Now that's entertainment.

The historic center has great shopping. In addition to Italian clothes, shoes and artwork, you can find African and Indonesian jewelry and furniture. A famous local craft is Cartapesta. This is a centuries-old technique of fashioning lifelike figures out of straw and paper mache. The figures are then painted so skillfully that they seem to be carved out of stone. The artisans in Lecce excel in religious and nativity statues, many of them life-size.

The best designer shopping by far is just outside the historic center at Piazza Mazzini. Max Mara, Missoni and Valle Verde are at your disposal, just to name a few. The Piazza is also home to a small park with an imposing white stone fountain in the center. Perched throughout the fountain's structure are whimsical, impish figures that peek at you from under the streams of water and seem to be having great fun. At night the fountain is lit with a golden glow, adding a new dimension to its architecture.

As expected, Saturday night is party night in Lecce. Around midnight, everyone drives into the historic center, creating bumper to bumper traffic seldom seen outside of New York City. Eventually, everyone arrives and miraculously finds parking. Then it's off on foot to the bar of your choice. We chose Route 66, a noisy, crowded place with music videos playing from multiple screens, but no dancing. It's a place to sit, smoke, drink and speak loudly to the person next to you.

After the bar, there's always a party going on at somebody's apartment. That's a great opportunity to hear someone sing, watch someone else learn how to juggle, and try to find the bathroom. When you've had enough, what to do? Luckily, the answer lies at Leopardi, open 24 hours serving coffee, liquor and pastry. This place is very popular (especially around 3:00 a.m.) and there's always a line to get in. We wait patiently and our reward is cappuccino and flaky delights amid the music and neon. Even as we leave about an hour later, the line outside is just as long and the place is just as lively as when we arrived. It makes you wonder if anyone ever sleeps in this town on a Saturday night.

Click here to view selections from Carolyn's Photograhic Collection "Italy Through The Eyes Of Love"

Click here to send beautiful ecards or to download exquisite desktop wallpapers from our unique selection.

This article and the images contained herein are protected by copyright laws and may not be copied without permission.

The Maremma Region of Tuscany - Ansedonia

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

Directly across the harbor from Porto Ercole lies Ansedonia, an almost sleepy little town with some of the best beachfront in Tuscany. Rather than the rocks and pebbles that greet you on so many northern Italian beaches, Ansedonia offers soft, velvety sand and invites you to dig in your toes. Ansedonia is where some of the wealthiest families in Italy have their summer retreats (like the Agnellis, for instance).

The water is warm and clear and, when the breezes are right, the perfect liquid highway for windsurfers. Many of the locals are ardent wind surfers, and even if it's not your idea of fun, watching them is hypnotic. There's something about the silhouette of a triangular sail gliding silently across the water, powered only by the breeze and guided by a solitary human being that relaxes the mind and opens the heart.

Because it's a seaside town, most people own a raft or a motor boat. Hitch a ride with someone and get the experience of a lifetime. This area of the Tyrrhenian Sea is characterized by jagged stone formations jutting out of the water. Depending on the size of the rock, some areas are fit for cliff diving, while others are home to luxurious retreats of the wealthy. It's easy to feel envious, but as you skim the water's surface in your little craft remember that you're enjoying the same sun, surf and scenery for a fraction of the cost!

On the beach you can rent a lounge or umbrella or bring your own. Conveniently, there are bathrooms and small huts where you can change your clothes. Water aerobics are popular, and an above-ground pool stands on the sand just for this purpose. Classes are given regularly, with the instructor shouting encouragement from a wooden platform outside of the pool. However you choose to spend your day at the beach, be sure you stay long enough to watch the breathtaking sunset. It's surprising how many people leave before this natural wonder begins. Don't be one of them. Stay and watch one of the best shows around.

One of my most memorable experiences in Ansedonia was when my Italian host instructed me to find small clams at the beach and bring them home for that night's dinner. He was planning a special dish and the clams were essential. He told me to sit at the water's edge and run my outstretched fingers just under the wet sand. There I would find the small, nickel-sized clams for our repast. I had a paper cup of water nearby, and I put the clams immediately into the cup. I was to fill the cup three quarters of the way with clams and be sure to keep all of them covered with water at all times. If any of them were uncovered, they would open too early in the process, ruining the taste. 'Don't let them open' was my mantra. I walked home with the cup of clams, making sure the water didn't spill out of the cup, exposing the precious cargo to air. When I arrived at the villa, the clams were rinsed and added to homemade angel hair pasta, olive oil and garlic. The heat from the pasta opened the clams and their flavor infused the dish. It was heaven.

You don't always have to eat at home, though. A tasty restaurant on the beach called Al Cartello offers specialties for lunch and dinner. Fresh seafood, pasta and locally grown vegetables are served up from the deceptively small kitchen. Lighter fare is also available, such as varieties of pizza, along with beverages and gelato. Al Cartello is constructed as a large hut with a thatched roof, wood floors and windows without glass or screens. You can eat inside and watch soccer on the T.V., or eat outdoors at one of the many umbrelled tables. At night, it's especially nice to settle in at one of these outdoor tables. Torches blaze all around in the sand and small candles grace the tables. The gentle, steady sound of the surf in the darkness sets the perfect mood.

During my visit, Al Cartello hosted several private parties, with 'private' being a rather loose idea. One night, friends threw a birthday party and it seemed the whole town was there. The food was served buffet-style and live music played. We danced on the sand until we were hungry, and then ate and danced some more. At some point, everyone jumped into the water for a moonlight swim. The sky was full of stars and we watched in wonder as a few of them shot across the sky, leaving streaks of light behind them.

Click here to view selections from Carolyn's Photograhic Collection "Italy Through The Eyes Of Love"

Click here to send beautiful ecards or to download exquisite desktop wallpapers from our unique selection.

This article and the images contained herein are protected by copyright laws and may not be copied without permission.

The Maremma Region of Tuscany - Porto Ercole, Orbetello and Porto Santo Stefano

This article also appears on our Italian Journal page.

Off the coast of southern Tuscany a magnificent rock formation juts skyward out of the sea. Known as Monte Argentario, this beachfront haven has long been a popular summer destination for Romans and Tuscans alike. This region includes Porto Ercole, Orbetello, Porto Santo Stefano and, across the harbor on the mainland, Ansedonia.

The town of Porto Ercole is surrounded by what's left of a mighty stone fortress. Much of the wall facing the Tyrrhenian Sea remains sufficiently intact so that an intrepid soul can walk its length while standing tall above the ocean. The wall is narrow and uneven but if you're up to the challenge, it's worth it. But please, watch your step. The sea is so beautiful and the palm trees so grand, you can forget to look where you're going!

Porto Ercole boasts several boating marinas and has long been a sailors' town. It is home to no less than three forts, the most interesting of which is Fort Stella. Named for its shape, it was built in the form of a star. One of its courtyards is a hexagon. Obviously, the architect loved geometry.


After facing down the dangers of the fortress wall, go just outside the walls on the other side of town and grab yourself a luscious gelato. Several kiosks are located at the edge of a park serving sweets and espresso. You can sit at one of the small tables set up near the street or stroll through the park with your gelato in hand. During the summer, these little cafes continue serving well into the night, so you can indulge yourself on the way home from a movie, dancing or a local concert.

The nearby town of Orbetello is surrounded by lagoons and awash in sea air. It attracts young, active tourists making the most of their holidays. At the same time, the past is very much alive. While sitting in an outdoor cafe enjoying a glass of wine, we heard the usual late afternoon noises; cell phones ringing, animated conversations, music from the radio playing inside the bar. Gradually, we became aware of other, less expected sounds. We heard the heavy notes of a tuba, the semi-regular crash of cymbals, and the beat of a bass drum. Trumpets joined in, and notes from a clarinet whirled and danced above it all. The sounds grew louder as the band drew closer, a marching band of old men wending its way through the stone streets into the main piazza. The men arranged themselves in a loose concert formation and played like they were playing for a king. We were never clear on what they were celebrating, but it didn't matter. It was an honor just to be there. A fragile tradition reaching out from the old world into the new millennium, refusing to go without a fight.

On the other side of Monte Argentario lies Porto Santo Stefano. It's a little more chic and high priced, with more of an elite resort feeling. Sure, it has great views and shimmering water, but what does it have that's truly one of a kind? La Stregha del Mare. Located on a two lane road full of hairpin turns without any streetlights, this is a dance club with a difference. La Strega del Mare calls itself a Glamour Club, and it's not kidding. Open from July to September, it attracts locals and tourists alike, including the jet set crowd. You never know who will be standing next to you, vying for the bartender's attention.

House music lovers can dance the night away in the multi-leveled disco as DJs spin the latest tracks. While you dance, look up through the open ceiling and out toward the water, into the night sky. This is great way to dance and hear the current hits on the European charts. Depending upon which night you go, they also feature live band performances.

If you'd like a more sophisticated atmosphere, just go upstairs and make a few turns to find yourself in the piano bar. Sip a drink at a candlelit table and listen to the piano player sing contemporary and standard hits in Italian, English and other languages. It's quiet enough to have a conversation with a partner (maybe someone you just met in the disco?) and good enough to just listen and enjoy. If the impulse strikes, this is the place to dance your best ballroom.

While in Argentario, I was lucky enough to see Dee Dee Bridgewater perform in a park on a makeshift stage. We sat in bleachers that had been erected for the occasion. Although not very comfortable (think: high school football), we soon forgot all about that as Dee Dee began to serenade us. She sang her trademark jazz songbook in English, as were virtually all of her comments between songs. Her Italian-speaking audience loved every minute of it. They responded to the talent, emotion and musicality rather than needing to understand every word. Dee Dee's sprinkling of Italian phrases throughout the performance was enough for the crowd to erupt in wild appreciation.

The hours slipped past, the night grew darker and the music sweeter. As I looked to my right, I saw a glowing full moon shining down on the deep blue, undulating sea. For a second, I wished I'd brought my camera, but I realized that no photo could have done the moment justice. The colors were impossible to capture, the sky too expansive, the music too joyous, the surrounding conversation too animated, to have ever been frozen in a frame.

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